By October the harbour has thinned. The fishing boats still go out at six, the day-trippers have gone home, and the rooftop bar opens at five instead of six. The light is lower and stays longer on the slate roofs.
Breakfast moves inside the coffee room by the second week. The pastries are the same; the window seat is easier to come by. A sweater is needed on the terrace by the third week.
October is when the house is at its quietest. Three of the four floors have rooms available; the fourth is taken down to bare plaster for a fortnight of repainting. Booking is lighter, and the staff have time for the small things.